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Email me at niko@bonitofreedive.org See my Rollergun!
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I have managed to measure the speed of speargun spears along their
whole trajectory through the water. The plots show the energy and the
speed, respectively, of two different spears, fired from the same gun.
Energy and speed are plotted against the distance the spear has
travelled. Energy is important, because that tells you how hard the
spear is going to hit the fish. Speed is important, because that tells
you how quickly the spear is going to get to the fish.
The first part of each curve is the rapid acceleration of the spear in the gun. The gun has a 90cm barrel. The acceleration happens only along about half the barrel, then the spear starts decelerating because of the water drag.
The magenta curves are for a 7mm x 1.3m spear of about 450 gram. The yellow curves are for an 8mm x 1.5m spear of about 600 gram. Since the 8mm spear is heavier, it is slower initially, but far along the range, it is faster - it keeps its speed better. The energy difference is even more significant - after the first 1.5m, the 8mm spear has more energy than the 7mm. The 8mm gets a smaller initial energy than the 7mm, because it has higher drag, but it retains this energy longer, because of its higher mass.
This example illustrates how measurements like these can help a speargun builder decide on parameters like spear dimensions. To find out how I made the measurements, read on:
The measured graphs are not perfect. The small fluctuations are errors. The spear speed cannot fluctuate like that, but the line can perhaps. There are other sources of error as well, including imperfect spacing of my marks. Nevertheless, the curves are good enough to give us a very good idea of the spear behaviour in the water.
The marked line is 1.5mm solid-weave dyneema. The dyneema also has low friction and has very low stretch. (It's also very strong.) I marked the line using a balck felt-tipped laundry marker pen. I wound the whole line around a spear, and stuck some masking tape along the spear, exposing only a portion of the line along the side of the spear. The exposed part was marked.
The LED is powered by a 9V battery. A series resistor limits
the current through the LED. I used a SFH409 high-output, infra-red
LED. (Its output light is invisible). It can draw up to 100mA. The LED
has a voltage drop of 1.5V, so the resistor can be as small as
(9-1.5)/0.1 = 75 ohm. The LED anode is connected to postive.
I used an SFH309 phototransistor. It is fast enough, has high enough
current output and is well matched with the LED. The phototransistor is
powered by the same 9V battery, also with a resistor in series. The
collector of the phototransistor is connected to postive. In this case
the resistor is not to limit the current, but to convert the current
through the transistor to a voltage that can be input to the sound
card. The phototransistor has a very low current flowing through it
when not illuminated. Since I used white acetal, some light still
reflects off the inside surfaces, so the transistor does not completely
swith off when it sees a black mark. It has a current in the order of
1mA flowing through it when light from the LED reflects off an unmarked
white part of the line. I used a 1 kilo Ohm resistor. That gave me a
voltage swing between white and black of about 1V.
Datasheets for both components can be found at Infineon. I got them for less than 1 US$ each.
The two sides of the 1kOhm resistor are fed via an audio jack into the computer sound card line-in. A good place to put the 1k resistor is inside the jack. I used a 10 meter twisted-pair cable between my sensor and the computer. (Most sound cards have both a line-in and a microphone jack. This design is suitable for the line-in. The microphone input expects a smaller signal on most sound cards. Most microphone jacks also have a 5V supply on them which complicates matters further. First test the voltages, before you connect to your sound card.) Line-in is stereo: use just the one side of the jack, or use a mono jack.
Note that the sound card input has a frequency range of about
20Hz-20kHz. (This may vary between makes.) The 20kHz is fast enough for
a fast spear shot. The bottom cutoff of 20Hz means that you don't get
DC into the sound card. When the line is not moving, you cannot tell
from the recording whether the line is at a black mark or not. This may
obscure the first pulse of the shot.
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